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Experimental and numerical investigations on wave motions over platform reef-flat

Journal of Hydrodynamics, ISSN: 1878-0342, Vol: 34, Issue: 2, Page: 244-258
2022
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Article Description

Previous studies have shown that high-frequency (HF) waves, low-frequency (LF) waves and wave set-up coexist on shallow coral reef-flat and jointly contribute to potential floods and subsequent damages of infrastructures and islands on it. To better understand the reef-flat wave dynamics with incident waves and still water level, a wave-flume experiment was performed based on an idealized platform reef composed of a steep reef-face (1:4), a relatively mild reef-rim (1:14) and a horizontal reef-flat. Also, the non-hydrostatic phase-resolving model SWASH was validated against the experiment and then applied to further numerically investigate the effects of reef-rim topographic features on the reef-flat wave motions. The results show that incident waves of a larger wave height and a longer wave period can generate larger LF waves and wave set-up, thereby inducing greater HF waves on the reef-flat. Higher still water level can lead to larger HF waves but result in smaller wave set-up. In contrast to HF waves and wave set-up, LF waves are minimally affected by the still water level. A rim of milder slope and larger edge depth will induce smaller HF and LF waves and set-up on the reef-flat, and thus provide better protection for the reef-flat region. Furthermore, on the reef-flat, the ratio of HF significant wave height to water depth H/ (h+ η¯) is approximately constant; the dimensionless LF significant wave height H/H and the dimensionless wave set-up η¯/[Tp(gHs0)1/2] can be related to the inverse wave steepness parameter gT/H and the relative reef-flat submergence (h+ η¯) / H respectively.

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