Experimental assessment of a nonlinear, deterministic sea wave prediction method using instantaneous velocity profiles

This paper presents the experimental proof-of-concept of a nonlinear, deterministic wave prediction method. The method is based on the adapted version of the HOS-NWT wave model and uses wave-induced velocity profiles as input information on the sea state. Unlike most HOS approaches, it does not need any optimization procedure or data assimilation step to initialize the simulation. Wave tank experiments were conducted to validate the method for irregular, long-crested waves with a low significant steepness. Data was collected using wave probes, an ADV and the fifth beams of two ADCP sensors set-up with a High-Resolution mode. Despite challenging experimental conditions for the ADCPs, the method proved able to reconstruct reliable instantaneous horizontal velocity profiles from the acoustic sensor measurements. These profiles were used as boundary conditions in the wave prediction model. The sea surface elevation predicted was compared to wave probe measurements and showed good agreement all over the theoretical prediction area.