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Wave modelling – The state of the art

Progress in Oceanography, ISSN: 0079-6611, Vol: 75, Issue: 4, Page: 603-674
2007
  • 480
    Citations
  • 0
    Usage
  • 537
    Captures
  • 1
    Mentions
  • 0
    Social Media
Metric Options:   Counts1 Year3 Year

Metrics Details

  • Citations
    480
    • Citation Indexes
      473
    • Policy Citations
      7
      • 7
  • Captures
    537
  • Mentions
    1
    • News Mentions
      1
      • 1

Most Recent News

Three-dimensional wave breaking

Nature, Published online: 18 September 2024; doi:10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z We conduct experiments in a wave tank and show that waves with realistic three-dimensional spreading can become two times steeper than two-dimensional waves before breaking, with three breaking regimes identified.

Review Description

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered. The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments.

Bibliographic Details

L. Cavaleri; J. H.G.M. Alves; F. Ardhuin; A. Babanin; I. Young; M. Banner; K. Belibassakis; M. Benoit; M. Donelan; J. Groeneweg; T. H.C. Herbers; P. Hwang; P. A.E.M. Janssen; T. Janssen; I. V. Lavrenov; R. Magne; J. Monbaliu; M. Onorato; V. Polnikov; D. Resio; J. McKee Smith; W. E. Rogers; A. Sheremet; H. L. Tolman; G. van Vledder; J. Wolf

Elsevier BV

Agricultural and Biological Sciences; Earth and Planetary Sciences

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